After four days of train-hopping across Switzerland, it was time for a change of pace. As promised, my girlfriend and I set off on a cycling adventure to explore the picturesque Seeland region – the area surrounding the lakes of Biel/Bienne, Murten/Morat, and Neuchâtel.
Setting Off
Early Friday morning, we boarded a train bound for Bern, then onward to Biel/Bienne. Our starting point, however, was Lyss, where we disembarked to begin our two-wheeled journey.
Swiss Cycling Infrastructure: A Quick Sidenote
Before I dive into our route, I must take a moment to appreciate Switzerland’s incredible infrastructure. We all know about the country’s world-class rail system, but equally impressive is the network of hiking and biking paths. These routes crisscross the country in a dense web, each meticulously labeled with its own number both on maps and out in nature.
The Foundation SuisseMobile have developed an app that not only outlines these routes but also provides the most detailed topographical map of Switzerland you could imagine. With this combination of well-marked paths and detailed digital maps, it’s nearly impossible to get lost. And if you do somehow manage to lose your way, the app ensures you’ll find it again quickly.
Our Route: Following the 44
Our journey followed the second leg of Route 44, which stretches from Aarberg in the Canton of Bern to Payerne in the Canton of Vaud. This beautiful route took us through a diverse landscape of fields and charming villages and towns.
We pedaled through Aarberg, with its historic old town, and onwards to Murten, a medieval town on the shores of Lake Morat. From there, we cycled to Avenches, known for its Roman ruins, before reaching Payerne with its impressive abbey church.
One of the fascinating aspects of this route was how often we crossed cantonal borders. Despite only traveling through three cantons (Bern, Fribourg, and Vaud), we actually crossed cantonal borders four times! It’s a testament to the complex and intertwined nature of Swiss geography.
Another highlight was crossing the language border, transitioning from German-speaking to French-speaking Switzerland. It’s always a joy to experience the linguistic diversity of this small but varied country.
Night in Fétigny
As the day drew to a close, we found ourselves in the small village of Fétigny, where we spent the night at some friends’ place. After a full day of cycling, it was the perfect place to rest and recharge for the journey home.
The Journey Home
We woke up Saturday morning to rising temperatures and the realization that the next stretch from Payerne to Lausanne would be quite hilly. Given the heat and the challenging terrain ahead, we made the wise decision to let the Swiss railway system take over from here.
We boarded a regional train from Payerne to Palézieux, and from there caught another train to Nyon. One of the great things about Swiss trains is how bike-friendly they are. We had no trouble bringing our bicycles on board, making the transition from cycling to train travel seamless.
Reflections on Our Two-Wheel Adventure
As we rolled into Nyon, bikes in tow, I couldn’t help but reflect on the unique perspective cycling gives you of a country. While trains offer speed and comfort, and hiking provides intimate contact with nature, cycling strikes a perfect balance. You cover enough ground to see a variety of landscapes and towns, but you’re still close enough to the ground to notice the little details – the smell of freshly cut hay, the sound of cowbells in the distance, the gradual change in architecture as you cross from one linguistic region to another.
Our Seeland adventure showcased yet another facet of Switzerland’s beauty and diversity. From the bilingual city of Biel/Bienne to the Roman ruins of Avenches, from the shores of Lake Morat to the fields of the Broye Valley, every pedal stroke brought new sights and experiences.
As I look back on the past six days of travel – four by train and two by bike – I’m struck once again by how much variety Switzerland packs into its borders. Whether you’re scaling Alpine passes, cruising across lakes, or cycling through pastoral landscapes, this country never ceases to amaze.
For now, it’s time to rest. On Monday, I’ll be back on the (rail)road. But for now, I’m savoring the memories of our cycling tour, grateful for Switzerland’s incredible infrastructure that makes such diverse travel experiences possible. Here’s to many more adventures, whether on two wheels or two rails!