After a brief hiatus, it was time to hit the rails again and explore some of the lesser-known corners of Switzerland. This time, my sights were set on the northeastern cantons that remained uncharted on my personal Swiss map: Glarus and the two Appenzells. Given their distance from my home, I decided to turn this into a two-day adventure, with a night’s stay at the youth hostel in St. Gallen.
All Aboard to Zürich
My journey began with a train ride to Zürich, the pulsing heart of Switzerland’s rail network. It’s amazing how this city serves as a hub, connecting virtually every corner of the country. From there, I hopped onto an S-Bahn train, one of those efficient suburban rails that are the lifeblood of Swiss public transport.
Glarus: A Hidden Gem
The S-Bahn whisked me away to Linthal, and here’s where the geography lesson begins. Glarus canton is essentially the valley of the Linth river, stretching south from Lake Walen into the Glarner Alps. It’s served by a single train line, a testament to Swiss efficiency in working with the landscape rather than against it.
Of course, one aim was to add the Glarus parliament to my growing collection of canton parliament selfies. But more than that, I wanted to uncover the secrets of this canton I’d barely known before.
The Braunwaldbahn: An Elevator in Nature
My first stop was just shy of Linthal, at the valley station of the Braunwaldbahn. This funicular connects the valley town of Linthal with the car-free mountain village of Braunwald. If you’re a fan of the YouTube channel Tim Traveller, you might recognize this place. Last autumn, during a two-week refurbishment, the funicular was temporarily replaced by a helicopter service – probably the most budget-friendly helicopter rides ever offered!
Luckily for me, my GA travel pass covered the funicular ride, saving me from shelling out for a chopper. The five-minute journey felt like an elevator ride through nature, offering stunning views that only got better upon reaching the top. The panorama of the Linth valley spread out below was simply breathtaking.
A Walk to Remember
What does one do on a mountain? Walk down, of course! I embarked on a lovely hour-long descent along a steep path, mostly through the forest but punctuated by spectacular valley vistas. It’s moments like these that remind me why I love exploring Switzerland so much – the seamless blend of nature and infrastructure, allowing easy access to such beauty.
Glarus: The Surprising Capital
Back at the station, I headed north to Glarus town, the canton’s capital. I was taken aback by the train station – it looks more like a castle, complete with a backdrop of mountains that seems almost too picturesque to be real. The town itself is surprisingly representative for a canton of only 40,000 inhabitants, defying expectations at every turn.
Glarus is truly an underappreciated gem. Just an hour from Zürich, it offers picturesque views and excellent hiking trails. History buffs shouldn’t miss the Anna Göldi museum, which explores the last witch trial in Europe in 1782 – a fascinating case for those interested in legal history.
A Detour to Liechtenstein
My original plan was to head straight to St. Gallen, but while waiting for my train in Sargans, I had an idea. Why not make a quick detour to Liechtenstein? In many ways, this tiny country could be considered an honorary Swiss canton – it uses the Swiss franc, is part of one of the world’s oldest free-trade unions with Switzerland (established in 1923), and is often represented diplomatically by Swiss embassies.
A bus from Sargans took me to Vaduz Post, the main transport hub in Liechtenstein’s capital (though, interestingly, not the country’s largest town). Here, I grabbed my parliament selfie and some souvenirs, ticking off another unique experience on this Swiss adventure.
The Journey to St. Gallen
From Vaduz, I took another bus to Schaan, Liechtenstein’s largest town. Usually, there are trinational local trains running from Buchs (Switzerland) through Liechtenstein to Feldkirch (Austria), but these don’t operate on Sundays. Instead, I caught a bus back to the Swiss side of the Rhine.
From there, I boarded a train heading north, skirting around the two Appenzell cantons and even touching Lake Constance at Rorschach. This route showcases the incredible diversity of Swiss landscapes, from Alpine valleys to lakeside vistas, all accessible via a well-coordinated public transport system.
St. Gallen: A City of History and Modern Charm
As the train pulled into St. Gallen, I felt a surge of excitement. This city, known for its textile history and prestigious university, had long been on my list of places to explore. Stepping out of the station, I was immediately struck by the seamless blend of historical architecture and modern urban design.
My first stop was, of course, to add another parliament to my growing collection of canton parliament selfies. But the St. Gallen parliament is no ordinary government building. It’s housed in the impressive St. Gallen Abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage site that has served as the seat of the cantonal parliament since 1803. Standing in front of this majestic structure, with its intricate Baroque architecture, I couldn’t help but marvel at how Switzerland so effortlessly marries its rich history with contemporary governance.
The Appenzeller Bahn: A Glimpse of Tomorrow’s Adventure
After capturing my selfie, it was time to head to my accommodation for the night. Here’s where I got a tantalizing preview of tomorrow’s exploration. I hopped aboard what looked like a cross between a tram and a train – the Appenzeller Bahn. These unique vehicles serve as both city trams within St. Gallen and regional trains connecting to the Appenzell cantons. It’s yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in public transport, seamlessly connecting urban and rural areas. I made a mental note to delve deeper into this system tomorrow during my Appenzell adventure.
An Evening Ascent
Even after a full day of travel, the allure of Swiss scenery proved irresistible. In the evening, I decided to take advantage of the long summer daylight and ascended to a nearby viewpoints high above the city. The effort was well rewarded. As night slowly fell over St. Gallen, I watched in awe as the city lights began to twinkle on, one by one. The view from above offered a new perspective on the city’s layout, which nicely fits in between the surrounding mountains.
As I stood there, taking in the panorama, I reflected on the day’s journey. From the hidden valleys of Glarus to the princely capital of Liechtenstein, and now the historical city of St. Gallen – each place had its unique charm, its own story to tell. And yet, they were all connected by Switzerland’s remarkable transport network, making it possible to experience such diversity in a single day.
The lights of St. Gallen shimmered below, promising more adventures for tomorrow. With the Appenzell cantons on the agenda, I knew I was in for another day of discovering Switzerland’s lesser-known treasures. As I made my way back to the youth hostel, I felt a sense of anticipation. What new wonders would the Appenzeller Bahn reveal? What surprises did the famously traditional Appenzell region hold?
One thing was certain – in Switzerland, every day is an opportunity for new discoveries, whether you’re climbing mountains, riding funiculars, or simply hopping on a local train.