While yesterday was filled with breathtaking vistas and challenging hikes, today promised a different flavor of Swiss adventure. My second day in Grisons would take me from historic Olympic sites to refreshing alpine lakes, over mountain passes, and finally, to a journey through time on a nostalgic train.
Morning Stroll on an Olympic Track
After breakfast, I set out for a short hike along St. Moritz’s Olympic bobsleigh run. This isn’t just any bobsleigh track – it’s the oldest one still in use, dating back to 1904. It’s hosted two Winter Olympics, in 1924 and 1948, cementing its place in sporting history.
What makes this track truly remarkable is its seasonal transformation. In summer, it’s a pleasant walking path from St. Moritz down to the village of Celerina. But come winter, this path is painstakingly transformed by hand into a bobsleigh run using natural ice. This process effectively creates the world’s largest ice sculpture each year – a testament to Swiss precision and dedication to winter sports.
Alpine Lake Refreshment
My next stop was Lake Silvaplana, the largest of the Engadin lakes, south of St. Moritz. Sitting on the rocky beach, I took in the breathtaking alpine scenery before deciding to take a dip. Despite having my swimming gear, I didn’t stay in for long – at an altitude of 1,790 meters, the water temperature barely reaches 20°C (68°F) even in summer!
As I dried off, the lake came alive with wind and kite surfers. The steady south wind blowing through the valley creates perfect conditions for these sports, turning the alpine lake into an unexpected surfing destination. The contrast of colorful sails against the mountainous backdrop provided excellent photo opportunities.
Over the Julier Pass
Bidding farewell to St. Moritz, I boarded one of the iconic yellow Postauto buses, this time bound for the Julier Pass. At 2,284 meters, it’s even higher than the Bernina Pass I crossed yesterday. While the views may not rival those of Bernina, Nufenen, Grimsel, or Furka, the winding road on the northwest side, where waters flow towards the Rhine, made for an exhilarating ride.
Chasing the Perfect Shot at Landwasser Viaduct
From the small mountain village of Bivio, I changed buses to Tiefencastel, where I rejoined the Rhätische Bahn track. But I wasn’t ready to leave Grisons just yet. Instead, I headed east to Filisur, then walked about 15 minutes to a viewpoint of the iconic Landwasser Viaduct.
Here, I faced a photographer’s challenge: capturing the perfect shot of a train crossing the viaduct. With only an hour before my next train, I anxiously waited for the delayed Glacier Express from Zermatt. Just as I was about to give up, it appeared, allowing me to snap one of the most iconic images in Swiss train enthusiast circles.
A Journey Through Time
Racing back to Filisur station, I boarded a special treat: a nostalgia train bound for Davos. The 1920s-era cars, where passengers must step out to disembark, offered a glimpse into rail travel a century ago. As we wound through the wild Landwasser valley, I marveled at how this rugged landscape contrasts with Davos’s image as the host of the World Economic Forum.
The Original Rhätische Bahn
My final leg took me from Davos to Landquart on a modern train, but along a historic route. This track, crossing the Wolfgang Pass between the Landwasser and Landquart valleys, was the original Rhätische Bahn – the first metric gauge railway built in Grisons.
As I finally boarded an SBB train in Landquart for my journey home via Zurich, I reflected on two days packed with diverse experiences. From UNESCO World Heritage railway lines to Olympic bobsleigh runs, from alpine lakes to historic mountain passes, Grisons had showcased the very best of Swiss engineering and natural beauty.
These two days reinforced my admiration for Switzerland’s ability to seamlessly blend cutting-edge infrastructure with pristine natural environments. Whether it’s building a railway line through seemingly impassable terrain or transforming a walking path into an Olympic venue each winter, the Swiss approach to infrastructure continues to amaze and inspire.
As the familiar landscapes of home approached, I was already planning my next Swiss railway adventure. After all, in a country where every journey is a discovery, the possibilities are endless.