As the sun rose over the quaint town of Meiringen, I found myself eager to embark on another day of Swiss exploration. Little did I know that this journey would take me from the depths of ancient gorges to the heights of legendary mountain passes, showcasing once again the breathtaking diversity of Switzerland’s landscapes.
The Aareschlucht: Nature’s Sculpture Gallery
My first stop of the day was the Aareschlucht, a place I’d only known for its unique train station nestled within the mountain. As I stepped into the gorge, I was immediately struck by the raw power of nature on display. The limestone walls, dating back to a time long before the Alps themselves were formed, have been sculpted by glacial meltwater over the past 15,000 years. It’s a testament to the incredible energy stored in water and its ability to shape our world.
Walking through the gorge, which took about an hour, I found myself in awe of the intricate shapes carved into the rock. Each turn revealed new wonders, from smooth, polished surfaces to jagged outcrops. The Aareschlucht serves as a vivid reminder of the geological forces that have shaped Switzerland’s stunning landscapes.
A Change of Plans: From Waterfalls to Mountain Passes
My original plan had been to take the funicular up to Reichenbach Falls, famous for its Sherlock Holmes connection. However, faced with a long wait due to a large group, I decided to pivot. This spontaneous decision led me to one of the highlights of my Swiss travels: exploring the mountain passes by bus.
The Grimsel Pass: Where Engineering Meets Nature
Boarding a bus bound for the Grimsel Pass, I was treated to views that surpassed even the spectacular sights of the Nufenen Pass I’d experienced last week. The route wound its way up the mountainside, each turn revealing new vistas of snow-capped peaks and verdant valleys.
But the most jaw-dropping sight awaited just below the pass summit: Lake Grimsel and its dams. Here, I witnessed a marvel of Swiss engineering in progress. The original dam, built 90 years ago, is being reinforced by a new dam constructed right in front of it. It’s a prime example of Swiss pragmatism and their commitment to maintaining their infrastructure.
At the pass summit, 2,164 meters above sea level, we paused for five minutes. The crisp mountain air and panoramic views of the surrounding peaks were invigorating. It was here, near the source of the Aare River, that I felt truly on top of the world (again).
The Furka Pass: In the Footsteps of James Bond
From Gletsch, a tiny village nestled in the mountains, I switched to another bus bound for one of Switzerland’s most famous passes: the Furka. Known for its starring role in the James Bond film “Goldfinger,” the Furka Pass offers some of the most stunning views in all of Switzerland.
As we ascended, the landscape unfolded before us. On one side, the magnificent Rhone Glacier and the upper Rhone valley; on the other, the Urseren valley and the upper Reuss. The road itself is an engineering marvel, winding its way up the mountainside with hairpin turns that would challenge even the most skilled drivers.
Speaking of skilled drivers, I can’t help but express my admiration for the bus drivers who navigate these mountain roads. Maneuvering a large bus along narrow mountain passes with oncoming traffic is nothing short of impressive.
From Narrow Gauge to Standard: A Railway Enthusiast’s Dream
In Andermatt, I boarded the Matterhorn-Gotthard-Bahn, continuing my journey through Switzerland’s diverse railway network. After days of traveling on various narrow gauge railways, including the charming 800mm gauge between Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald, it felt almost strange to board a normal gauge train in Göschenen.
The trip along the old Gotthard railway line, which just a year ago had seemed to me one of the most stunning routes in Switzerland, now felt pleasantly familiar. The wild beauty of the Reuss valley served as a gentle transition, winding down from the high-energy adventures of the mountain passes.
A Serene Finale: Lake Lucerne by Boat
My journey wasn’t quite over yet. In Brunnen, a picturesque village on the shores of Lake Lucerne, I traded rail for water, boarding a boat for the final leg to Lucerne. Having explored the eastern part of the lake two years ago, today’s journey along the northern and western shores offered new perspectives on this jewel of central Switzerland.
As the boat glided across the calm waters, with the Alps reflected on the surface, I couldn’t help but reflect on the incredible diversity of experiences Switzerland had offered in just two days. From the depths of the Aareschlucht to the heights of the Grimsel and Furka passes, from narrow mountain roads to serene lake waters, each moment had been filled with wonder.
Arriving in Lucerne, I boarded the train that would take me home to the familiar shores of the Lake Geneva in less than three hours. As the landscape rushed by outside the window, I found myself already planning my next Swiss adventure. In a country where every journey is a discovery, the possibilities seem endless.
