After an exciting first day of canton-hopping and train-riding, I was ready for more Swiss adventures. Today’s destination: the beautiful canton of Ticino, with its Italian flair and stunning landscapes.
Journey to Ticino
I started the day by booking a night in a hostel in Locarno, a charming town on the northern shore of Lake Maggiore. With my accommodation sorted, I hopped on a train to Luzern, then changed towards Arth-Goldau, and finally boarded the Intercity to Ticino.
My original plan was to take a boat ride on Lake Lugano, but I realized during the train ride that the boat only operates on Wednesdays (and it was Tuesday). Ah, the joys of spontaneous travel! No worries though – I quickly changed my plan to include a mountain railway instead.
Lugano: A Brief Encounter
Arriving in Lugano, I took the funicular down to the city center. I had just enough time for a brief visit to the lake and to indulge in a delicious ice cream. Time flew by, and I almost missed my train! In a mad dash back to the station, I had to take the stairs instead of the funicular. Nothing like a bit of unexpected cardio to keep the travel excitement going!
Campione d’Italia: An Italian Curiosity
During the train ride, we passed by Campione d’Italia, an Italian exclave in Switzerland. It’s easily recognizable by its enormous – and, let’s be honest, rather unattractive – casino. Somehow, this out-of-place structure feels like it belongs there precisely because of how much it doesn’t fit in. It’s one of those geographical oddities that make travel so fascinating.
Monte Generoso: A Railway to the Sky
The highlight of my day was undoubtedly the mountain railway up to Monte Generoso. The train departs from Riva San Vitale, at the southern end of Lake Lugano, right in front of the station on the street.
The initial ascent feels like taking off in an airplane. Looking out the window, you see nothing but a sheer drop of a few hundred meters – not for the faint of heart! A fun fact: there’s only one switch on the entire railroad, which the train driver has to change manually. Yes, she actually got out of the train, changed the switch, and got back in. It’s these little touches that make Swiss train travel so charming.
Despite the railway’s age, the mountain station boasts a strikingly modern building. After some research, I can tell you that this building, known as “Fiore di pietra” (Stone Flower), was designed by the famous architect Mario Botta and opened in 2017. The station sits at an impressive altitude of 1,592 meters above sea level.
The Summit: A View to Remember
From the station, it’s a short but steep hike to the very top of Monte Generoso. The exact distance is about 250 meters, and it’s well worth the effort. Once at the summit, which stands at 1,701 meters, you’re rewarded with absolutely stunning views over Lake Lugano and the surrounding area.
Unfortunately, it was a bit hazy today, so I couldn’t see the 4000+ meter peaks in the distance. But even with the haze, the panorama was breathtaking. It’s moments like these that remind me why I love exploring Switzerland so much.
Sunset in Locarno
After descending from Monte Generoso, I made my way via Lugano to Locarno, where my hostel awaited. But the day wasn’t over yet – I had a special treat in store for the evening.
When I visited Locarno half a year ago, a colleague showed me the perfect spot to watch the sunset: a bench by the road near the funicular mountain station in Orselina. It’s a quiet, secluded spot with an unobstructed view of Lake Maggiore.
As the day drew to a close, I found myself back at this magical spot. The tranquility was perfect for creating a time-lapse video of night falling over Lake Maggiore. Watching the sun dip below the horizon, painting the sky in vibrant hues before giving way to the twinkling lights of the towns below, was the perfect end to an awesome day in Ticino.
As I made my way back to the hostel, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the Swiss Travel Pass that allows me to have these incredible experiences. Tomorrow brings new adventures, new trains to ride, and new corners of Switzerland to discover. I can’t wait to see what’s next!
