After two days of planned excursions, I woke up on day three with a delightful sense of freedom. No fixed plans, no booked accommodation – just the open road (or rather, the open rails and mountain passes) ahead of me. My only goal was to explore more of Ticino and the Alps.
Morning in the Verzasca Valley
Rising early, I found myself at the Locarno station by 8 AM, ready for another day of discovery. I hopped on a Postauto bus, one of those iconic yellow buses that are included in my Swiss Travel Pass. These buses are a treasure, connecting even the most remote corners of Switzerland with their extensive network.
My morning destination? The Verzasca Valley, the geographic heart of Ticino, just a short 30-minute drive from Locarno. As we entered the valley, we passed the famous dam that served as a filming location for the opening scene of the James Bond film “GoldenEye.” I couldn’t help but imagine Pierce Brosnan (or rather, his stunt double) making that heart-stopping bungee jump down the dam’s face.
I got off the bus at Ponte dei Salti, a 17th-century bridge that’s a popular spot for tourists and locals alike. Walking across the bridge is an experience in itself – the path follows the arcs of the bridge, giving you a unique perspective of the structure and the Smaragd-green waters below.
In the valley, I took time to soak in the natural beauty, snap some photos, and dip my feet into the ice-cold water of the Verzasca River. Despite the temptation, I couldn’t bring myself to go in any further than my feet – that water was freezing!
Lunchtime in Bellinzona
After my morning in nature, it was time to head back to civilization. I made my way to Bellinzona for lunch. I’d visited this charming city a year ago on a day trip to Ticino, so I didn’t need to take a parliament selfie this time. Instead, I simply enjoyed a leisurely meal and pondered my next move.
Ascending the Nufenen Pass
Inspired by my morning Postauto experience, I decided to take another bus journey – this time up one of Switzerland’s famous Alpine passes. Initially, I considered the Gotthard Pass, which I had passed under on my way to Ticino via the old Gotthard railway tunnel. (The longer, even further down base tunnel is still undergoing repairs after a crash last August – a reminder of the ongoing work required to maintain Switzerland’s impressive infrastructure.)
However, after checking the connections and realizing I’d either have to wait for an hour in a remote location or go back and forth, I changed my plans. Instead, I opted for a bus ride up the Nufenen Pass, which marks the border between Ticino and Valais.
At 2,478 meters above sea level, the Nufenen Pass is indeed the highest paved mountain pass entirely within Switzerland. Only the Umbrail Pass is higher at 2,501 meters, but it marks the border between Switzerland and Italy. The views from the Nufenen Pass road are absolutely stunning – a testament to both the beauty of the Swiss Alps and the engineering feat of building such roads.
At the highest point, the bus made a 50-minute stop. This break was a gift, allowing me to walk around, take countless pictures and videos, and explore this breathtaking spot. It marked the highest altitude I’d been to in over five years – a personal milestone amidst the geographical ones!
Descending to the Rhône Valley
After our high-altitude break, the bus continued its journey, eventually reaching Ulrichen, a station on the Matterhorn-Gotthard railway. I was fascinated to learn that Ulrichen sits at 1,347 meters above sea level. This meant that in about 20 minutes, we had descended over 1,100 meters – a dramatic change in elevation that really drives home the vertical scale of the Swiss Alps.
From Ulrichen, I boarded the Matterhorn-Gotthard railway, which took me along the upper reaches of the Rhône River. Known as the Rotten in German, this part of the river is just beginning its long journey to the Mediterranean Sea.
The train carried me down to Brig, where I transferred to an Interregio train. This final leg of my journey took me back to familiar territory – the shores of Lake Geneva and, ultimately, home to Nyon.
As I watched the landscape change from rugged Alpine peaks to the gentle slopes of the Swiss Plateau, I reflected on the incredible diversity of experiences I’d had in just three days. From Italian-speaking Ticino to the high Alpine passes to the French-influenced region around Lake Geneva, Switzerland had once again proven itself a country of remarkable contrasts and unparalleled beauty.
Tomorrow brings new adventures, but for now, I’m content to relive the memories of Ticino’s valleys, Nufenen’s heights, and the winding path of the young Rhône. What a country, and what a privilege to explore it!
