With just one week left on my Swiss Railway pass, it was time to prioritize my remaining explorations. At the top of my list was the renowned network of the Rhätische Bahn in the canton of Graubünden (Grisons). This vast network of metric gauge railways connects the far reaches of the canton, from Landquart in the north to Scuol-Tarasp in the east, Disentis/Mustèr in the west, and even Tirano in Italy.
The crown jewel of this network, both figuratively and literally, is undoubtedly the Albula and Bernina lines. The Albula line connects Thusis with St. Moritz via an impressive 144 bridges and 42 tunnels, including the 5.9 km Albula tunnel. The Bernina line then continues from St. Moritz, crossing the 2,253-meter-high Bernina Pass to Tirano in Italy. Together, these railway lines form a UNESCO World Heritage site, making them an absolute must-visit for any train enthusiast.
The Journey Begins
Despite rising with the sun, it was already 11 AM when I arrived in Chur, the capital of Grisons. Having visited this “oldest city of Switzerland” before, I skipped further exploration and immediately boarded one of the iconic red trains of the Rhätische Bahn, proudly bearing the coat of arms of Grisons on its front.
Now, a word of advice for fellow travelers: While you may have heard of the “Bernina Express” with its panorama cars, I highly recommend opting for the regular service instead. Look for the oldest-looking wagons you can find (usually at the back of the train). In these, you can lower the windows almost fully, allowing you to stick your head out for the full panoramic experience. The more modern wagons only allow you to lower about one-third of select windows, which can be a bit cumbersome for taking pictures and videos.
The Albula Line: An Engineering Marvel
As we set off from Chur towards St. Moritz via the Albula line, I secured a seat in one of the older wagons and immediately lowered the window. However, with 42 tunnels on this 61 km stretch, I found myself constantly adjusting the window to avoid annoying my fellow passengers while still enjoying the crisp mountain air.
The highlight of this section came when the famous Landwasser Viaduct came into view. This iconic structure, featured in almost every advertisement for Swiss rail travel, carries the railway across the Landwasser river gorge at a height of 65 meters. As our train made a right turn to cross the viaduct, I leaned out the window to capture this engineering marvel on camera.
Climbing the Alps
After passing through Bergün/Bravougn, the train faced its next challenge: climbing over 400 meters in altitude over a relatively short stretch. The solution? An ingenious series of spiraling tunnels and valley crossings that artificially extend the track. In just a few kilometers, the line switches sides of the valley four times, creating a dizzying pattern on railway maps that belies the sheer brilliance of its design. It’s astounding to think that this line was opened over 120 years ago and was built in a mere five years.
A Quick Change and Onwards to Bernina
Not wanting to linger in St. Moritz, I changed trains in Samedan and Pontresina to catch the next train up the Bernina line. Although I couldn’t secure a seat in one of the old wagons this time, I managed to get a right-side seat with an openable window on the Regio Express.
As we climbed towards the Bernina Pass, I couldn’t help but marvel at the geographical significance of our journey. We were crossing the European watershed: from the Rhine basin (North Sea) to the Inn Valley (Black Sea), and finally to the Po Valley (Adriatic Sea). This transition is mirrored in the linguistic landscape, with Romansh languages becoming more prominent alongside German.
Ascending the Bernina Pass
The train swiftly climbed the approximately 500 meters between Pontresina and the heights of the Bernina Pass, showcasing why the Bernina line is renowned as one of the steepest non-cogwheel railways in the world. En route, we were treated to stunning vistas of the Morteratsch glacier and the majestic summits of the Bernina mountains. But the true highlight was yet to come.
At the pass’s zenith, Ospizio Bernina station sits at an impressive altitude of 2,253 meters. Here, two lakes mark the European watershed: Lej Nair (Romansh for “Black Lake”) on the Black Sea side, and Lago Bianco (“White Lake”) on the Adriatic side. The names of these lakes also signify another border – that of language. We were crossing from the German/Romansh-speaking region into Italian-speaking territory, a reminder that Italian is not only spoken in Ticino but also in some valleys of Grisons.
Descending into Natural Splendor
Our journey continued southward and downhill towards Alp Grüm, a small station and restaurant boasting perhaps the most breathtaking views of the entire route. To the west, the Palü glacier presented itself in all its icy glory, while to the south, the Poschiavo valley stretched out beneath us. Despite the urge to disembark and breathe in the mountain air, our stops were brief, allowing only a few minutes to appreciate the scenery (thankfully, through the open train windows).
As we descended further, we followed the water’s path towards the Adriatic Sea, enjoying magnificent views of the Poschiavo valley, including the picturesque town of Poschiavo and its serene lake.
A Change of Plans
Originally, I had planned to follow the Bernina line all the way to its terminus in Tirano, spend some time there, and catch the next train back. However, the stunning beauty of the Bernina Pass made me reconsider. I decided to save the final stretch of the line (which I’ve heard is spectacular, featuring a circular viaduct and a journey through the town of Tirano) for another time. Instead, I chose to disembark at Poschiavo, about 40 minutes before Tirano, and catch the next train back up to Alp Grüm.
An Alpine Hike to Remember
This change of plans gifted me with a luxurious three-hour window to hike from Alp Grüm to Ospizio Bernina station, where I would catch the train to St. Moritz and my awaiting hostel bed. Setting off on this relaxed hike, I found myself enveloped by the crisp mountain air and near-total silence. The only artificial sounds came from occasional passing trains and the distant hum of planes some 10 km overhead. Otherwise, the soundtrack to my trek was provided by chirping crickets and whistling marmots.
It’s in moments like these, surrounded by nature with ample time and the incredible Swiss landscape stretching out before me, that I feel completely relaxed and content. With time on my side, I decided to take a small detour, climbing about 100 meters higher to Sassal Mason. This vantage point offered spectacular views down to Alp Grüm and the Palü glacier, as well as a unique perspective on the Bernina line.
From Sassal Mason, it was a short jaunt to the southern end of Lago Bianco. Here, I faced a choice: take the direct route back to the station along the eastern shore parallel to the railway track, or opt for the more scenic western shore. This latter option would take me past the point where small rivers from the Cambrena glacier flow into the lake, offering picturesque views of trains with the lake in the foreground. With time to spare, I chose the longer, more scenic route.
What I hadn’t anticipated, but what is quintessentially Swiss Alpine, was encountering a herd of grazing cows along the way. These bovine residents roam the alpine meadows freely, and hikers must accommodate their presence. Despite signs warning about protective mother cows, the herd seemed entirely unbothered by my passage through their domain.
After 9 kilometers and about 2.5 hours of hiking, I reached Ospizio Bernina station, tired but exhilarated. The combination of world-class railway engineering, breathtaking natural beauty, and the simple pleasure of a mountain hike had made for an unforgettable day in the Swiss Alps. As I waited for my train to St. Moritz, I couldn’t help but marvel at how Switzerland’s infrastructure and natural wonders work in perfect harmony, creating experiences that are truly one-of-a-kind.
Descending to St. Moritz
As the train from Ospizio Bernina began its descent towards St. Moritz, I settled into my seat, content and pleasantly tired from the day’s adventures. The journey down offered a different perspective on the landscapes I had admired earlier, with the golden afternoon light casting long shadows across the valleys and highlighting the intricate engineering of the railway line.
Evening by Lake St. Moritz
Arriving in St. Moritz, I dropped my belongings at the hostel and set out for a relaxing evening stroll around the famous Lake St. Moritz. The half-hour walk around the lake was the perfect way to unwind after a day of train travel and hiking. The still waters reflected the surrounding mountains and the elegant buildings of St. Moritz, creating a picturesque scene that seemed almost too perfect to be real.
I found a cozy spot by the lake for dinner, savoring both the local cuisine and the tranquil atmosphere. As I ate, I reflected on the day’s journey – from the heights of Bernina Pass to the shores of this glamorous alpine lake – marveling at how much of Switzerland’s diverse beauty I had experienced in just one day.
A Literary Companion to the Journey
As I settled into my hostel room for the night, I picked up the book I had been reading throughout the day – a crime story set on the Bernina Express. This book had been a thoughtful gift I received months ago, and I had deliberately saved it for this trip. My journey with this story had begun on the morning train to Grisons, providing the perfect prelude to the real-life adventure I was about to embark upon.
Now, with the day’s experiences fresh in my mind, returning to the story took on a whole new dimension. The fictional events unfolded along the very routes I had traveled, bringing an added layer of realism to the narrative. The author’s descriptions of the landscapes and railway, which had piqued my curiosity in the morning, now resonated with vivid clarity.
I found myself smiling at familiar place names and nodding in agreement at depictions of the stunning vistas I had witnessed firsthand. The book had served as both an introduction and a reflection of my day’s journey, enhancing my appreciation for the Bernina line in ways I hadn’t anticipated.
As I continued reading, the excitement of the day gradually gave way to a contented tiredness. My mind filled with a blend of real and fictional images – soaring viaducts, pristine alpine lakes, the ever-present backdrop of majestic mountain peaks, and now, the added intrigue of the story’s plot.
Drifting off to sleep, I marveled at how perfectly the book had complemented my adventure. It had been a constant companion, from the anticipation of the morning journey to this moment of reflection. Tomorrow would bring new experiences, but for now, I was thoroughly satisfied with a day well spent exploring one of Switzerland’s most impressive railways, both in reality and through the pages of my book.
